How do I set a guiding pin to cut by?

[jshale]

Wow, I tried to describe my question and even I am confused now....
Let me start with what I am attempting to do.
I love my Shark HD...I love the Vectric software! However I must use multiple carves to get something longer than 22 inches...Vectric software allows this and it is awesome....until it is time to measure....

My first attempt at a mantle piece was 4 feet long. I decided to cut 18" at a time. I made the first cut just fine...then I slid the board up 18" and after a few cuts realized that this was NOT where it was supposed to be. I had to adjust it 3 times before I found what I was looking for. Had this been an expensive board and not a 2x10 I would have went nuts.

So I was thinking that it would be nice to drill a starting position away from the carve whereby I could simply slide the board down and position the bit in the hole I created making it easy to find the next location to start the carve.

I am by no means smart so I was wondering if any of you have ever done this or know how it might be done?

Shaun Hale

[jshale]

Just a note...
I usually keep an inch or so extra on the board for a place to grip by. This is where I think I should be able to set a guide hole....


Shaun Hale

[TReischl]

Think "indexing pins".

First, I drill a pair of holes that will be on either side of the workpiece in the spoil board.

Then, start the first part of the job and drill two holes a known distance from where you put the index holes. These holes go in the workpiece.

So what you have now is two holes in the spoil board and two holes in the workpiece a known distance from the spoil board holes.

Move the piece down and put pins through the holes in the workpiece into the spoilboard.

You need to move your job in the software the exact same amount as the distance between the pairs of holes.

Wash, rinse and repeat as often as required.

Hope that helps. I think there is also a tutorial on this subject, but I run a much older version of the software so my reference would probably be wrong. I am sure one of the other folks will paste it when they come along. And probably chuckle at my attempt to describe something so simple!!!

[FixitMike]

To further clarify TReishi's comment. The following is for cutting and shifting the pattern 18". The locations given are for example, they can be changed to suit.

Cut 2 holes in your spoilboard for the locating pins. One at X=.5, Y=.5, and one at X=15, Y=.5.

Add a set of holes in the material, with the first cut, one at x=.5, Y=18.5, and one at x=15, Y=18.5 (To index with pins for the second cut).

Add additional sets of holes, increasing the Y by 18 each time for additional positioning.

You will slide the board down 18"each time

If you slide the board down along a guide board to align the X, then you only need the holes at X=.5)

P.S. This is not "simple". I rewrote my explanation 5 times before everything made sense. (I hope.)

[highpockets]

I had to cut some long molding pieces and was having a hard time rapping my head around the tiling process, so I made a drawing that helped me out. Since I was making a straight molding that didn't have critical alignment between tiles I used a guide rail on my cnc table and reference marks.
Here's a much better version then the one I originally used.
Hope it helps some.

[jshale]

Thanks for the quick responses! I have a minor surgery tomorrow but am looking forward to trying this out on Saturday! I thought it might have something to do with the offset but wasn't sure how to approach it.

Shaun Hale

[FixitMike]

I had to cut some long molding pieces and was having a hard time rapping my head around the tiling process, so I made a drawing that helped me out.

Note that you don't need the lower reference mark on the material. It is never used.

[scottp55]

Shaun....Good luck today!

What I did once was a combo of Miles and John's.
Screwed down a guide rail ever so slightly over my penciled line, Machined the guide rail edge perfectly parallel using my machine, THEN put dowel holes halfway(centered holes on the guide fence edge) into the guide board/spoilboard/material.
I use cam clamps to push material against the fence, so VERY simple to undo cam clamps, slide material, and reclamp accurately.
Saved a tiny bit of material which I needed for that piece.
scott

[highpockets]

I had to cut some long molding pieces and was having a hard time rapping my head around the tiling process, so I made a drawing that helped me out.

Note that you don't need the lower reference mark on the material. It is never used.

Mike you are correct, it's just a marker for the start of the 20" increments.

[scottp55]

Aimed mainly for Shopbot,and especially my machine, buy TJ goes through 2 examples without any fences and using my entire cutting area...MAY be some help?
Not the way I would do it now, but it works:)
scott

[mtylerfl]

Andrew Pitts made a similar tiling tutorial too. Here is the link: