fuzzies with maple

[aroff]

cutting a project with a 1/16 tapered ballnose
result have what I call fuzzies
have to dremel them pff, real pain
suggestions
feed is around 15

ty

[ger21]

Make sure the tool is very sharp, and use a harder wood?
Also try cutting in a different direction.

[scottp55]

Is it Sugar Maple or one of the "soft" Maples?
Even Sugar Maple can have problems, but like Ger says, cutting in a different direction can make a big difference.
For instance these "Owls" were cut using an offset/conventional toolpath, and the flags and tree were cut against the grain.
Unfortunately these were cut with an Onsrud 30* engraving bit for the fine details...not much cut in hard Maple with my new tiny TBN's.
Again...Sharp bits!
Another trick is to cut the same toolpath twice....OR in 3D...drop the stepover down so the Fuzzies get a couple passes..but more time on the machine.
But if it's the machine time vs. MY sanding time....I'm lazy and it's a no brainer for me:)
Most of my stuff only requires a good stiff hair or shoe brush(natural bristles boar/horsehair) to give me a no sand finish usually.

Feed sounds slow...can you post the a screenshot of the bits actual feeds/speeds?
scott

[BernieNUFC]

Wow i really love those owls, thanks for showing

[aroff]

feed and speed screen shot attached

its the Michael Tyler bling box
insert it curly maple, brand new bit

ty

andy

[ger21]

Curly maple is always going to be problematic, as the grain runs in multiple directions, back and forth with each "curl".
I'd try cutting it across the grain, or at an angle.

[aroff]

i appreciate the info
will give it a go
maybe run a cleanup the oposite way

[dhellew2]

Fuzzes are inevitable sometimes.
When all else fails I use a soft wire wheel [drill or dremel tool] or mop sander to remove fuzzes.
Sometimes I use a sandblaster too.
These methods will seldom change the profile of the cut.
Dale

[scottp55]

Curly...is just the figure and can be almost any Maple;
https://www.wood-database.com/curly-maple/
Haven't cut any Curly soft Maples, but the the 2 live edge were Big Leaf Maple(Quilted AAAA) and is definitely a soft Maple, and grain is as squirelly as you get:)
Cut 1 pass with no roughing and a small stepover with an Onsrud 30 engraving with a .01"flat...because it's only a single flute and I max out at 18,000rpm,
I cut at 1IPS in all 3 axis against the grain.
Now I have tiny TBN's with 2 flutes(.25-1mm Radius)...I'd probably try 1.5IPS and 17-18K at 6%.
Probably still cut against the grain, but might roughing pass with .125BN with .015" left, then give it a coat of finish, and then do my finish cut for the Big Leaf.
My Curly Moose was Sugar Maple and probably cut against the grain in one pass with the 2F TBN's at 6% and 1.5IPS in all axis.
Quilted cuts did leave some 600G abranet sanding, and 3M 400G radial bristle disks. As they were one-ofs, and for my house, I'd cheat my Z up .015"/cut/finish coat/and then run again.
Just my very persnickety advice
I made $40 each on a dozen of those tiny "Loon" buttons...but otherwise I'd go broke If I was in the 3D business
scott