Creating Marquetry with Aspire

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TReischl
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Creating Marquetry with Aspire

Post by TReischl »

There have been a couple of other threads about using a laser on the cnc router.

Here is where I currently am at using one for marquetry/inlay:
20180301_145247_1519934001305.jpg
20180301_145236_1519934001690.jpg
The inlay is about 3.5 inches tall. The pieces are .020 thick (which is a pretty standard veneer size). The base is cherry. Leaves are poplar. Stems are walnut. Flower petals are osage orange.

This is the second attempt at doing this type of work. On this one I used a .031 dia ball nose tapered mill to cut the pockets to .025 deep. I then made a profile pass with the same tool but set the depth at .035 to provide a bit of relief from the curvature of the ball nose. I think that took about 8 minutes at 200 IPM.

The laser is a 2.5 watt from China. Very simple piece of hardware. Plug it in and it turns on. I have it connected to a relay so it is turned on by M3 and off by M5. The beam comes on at the beginning of the program and stays on until the end. When cutting the veneer I am cutting the mirror image so it does not matter if the laser leaves a slight mark on the pieces during rapid travel. I have not fiddled around with offsetting at all. I just cut on the line.

To cut .020 veneer at this power 4 passes are required. So I set the total depth of cut to .004 and the tool is set to take .001 per pass. This causes the four passes to be automatically created. The post does not output any Z motion whatsoever. In fact, it is pretty much stripped of everything but essential moves and commands. I have been using 35 IPM as the feedrate. I may actually increase this speed and increase the number of passes to see if it produces better results.

I do not do enough of this sort of thing to justify a standalone laser system. So for a bit more than $100 this works just fine.

One of the great things about Aspire is being able to modify a post processor. Programming this stuff is as easy as it gets.

This is just a test piece so there are a couple of things I would have done differently, but it is all part of the learning process. Oh, the itty bitty twigs are about .07 at the thinnest portions. Those are the twigs attaching the leaves.

The cutting and gluing process is quite fast. Much faster than the design work.

Edit: I have ordered some tiny endmills from China, they are 1.5mm in diameter. Should be interesting figuring out what feedrate works for them.
"If you see a good fight, get in it." Dr. Vernon Johns

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Re: Creating Marquetry with Aspire

Post by mtylerfl »

Very interesting! Looks like the first marquetry experiment went pretty well!

I notice very slight chatter around the edges of the pockets. Probably due to the upcut of the tiny ballnose. Is there such a thing as a downcut ballnose (or EM) that small?? Maybe not necessary - perhaps just slowing the feed rate would reduce or eliminate any edge roughness?

I'm very anxious to read about your next experiments and observations!
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TReischl
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Re: Creating Marquetry with Aspire

Post by TReischl »

Hello Mike,

I took the profile pass at 50 IPM. DOC was .030 but it was only engaging .01 due to previous cuts. I am thinking the chatter may have come from the 200 IPM cuts.

Don't think a ball nose is really the way to go, but I wanted to give it a try because it is the smallest diameter tool I currently have.

What I "could" do is cut the pockets with a .125, then use the ball nose to get in the small areas. That would only be until the 1.5mm tools arrive from China, in about a month. I was just too lazy to do a tool change today.

Next up is sand shading. Just ordered a small electric hotplate from Amazon. Now I have to head to the pet store to find some aquarium sand. . . . .
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Re: Creating Marquetry with Aspire

Post by LittleGreyMan »

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Best regards

Didier

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Re: Creating Marquetry with Aspire

Post by mtylerfl »

Ted,

I LOVE the effect of sand shading! Anxious to see that too!

I agree about the 200ipm. I'll bet you're on the money with that contributing to the slight chatter. I think I would also try an EM where it makes sense, too.

I hope the boat from China doesn't take too long. I'm sure you can hardly wait!
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Re: Creating Marquetry with Aspire

Post by TReischl »

Well Mike, the sand shading is going to be interesting, that is for sure. More an art than a science.

One nice thing about this process is that it is very fast. Creating all the leaves too all of about two minutes. So it is really easy to make parts to play with.

As I get rolling on this I may start making my veneers .030 thick instead of the usual .020. The only reason I am using the .02 is that I got a bunch of veneer at the Chicago woodworking show about 20 years ago at a real steal. The guy was selling packs of ten sheets about 10 X 24 for $4 a pack. Anyway, I think the .03 will allow a little wiggle room.

My better half is heading off to visit her sister tomorrow. So I have my travels planned. Pet shop for some silica sand, stop to get some long tweezers to keep from shading my fingers and a small cast iron skillet. The hot plate will be in Saturday, gotta love Amazon with their quick deliveries and mostly free shipping.

I remember seeing a guy doing sand shading on TV like 40 years ago, always something I wanted to try my hand at. And no, it was not in black and white. . . . .LOL
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Re: Creating Marquetry with Aspire

Post by mtylerfl »

TReischl wrote:Well Mike, the sand shading is going to be interesting, that is for sure. More an art than a science.

One nice thing about this process is that it is very fast. Creating all the leaves too all of about two minutes. So it is really easy to make parts to play with.

As I get rolling on this I may start making my veneers .030 thick instead of the usual .020. The only reason I am using the .02 is that I got a bunch of veneer at the Chicago woodworking show about 20 years ago at a real steal. The guy was selling packs of ten sheets about 10 X 24 for $4 a pack. Anyway, I think the .03 will allow a little wiggle room.

My better half is heading off to visit her sister tomorrow. So I have my travels planned. Pet shop for some silica sand, stop to get some long tweezers to keep from shading my fingers and a small cast iron skillet. The hot plate will be in Saturday, gotta love Amazon with their quick deliveries and mostly free shipping.

I remember seeing a guy doing sand shading on TV like 40 years ago, always something I wanted to try my hand at. And no, it was not in black and white. . . . .LOL
My better half left yesterday for a 12-week stay in Israel (she arrived there a few hours ago). I had all my travels/errands planned too - but, she was kind enough to add her own supplements to my plans (clean carpets, wax hardwood floors, paint porch, etc.) Can I come over to your place instead? :D
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TReischl
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Re: Creating Marquetry with Aspire

Post by TReischl »

C'mon over Mike, my wife would be happy to manage your daily work load.
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Re: Creating Marquetry with Aspire

Post by mtylerfl »

TReischl wrote:C'mon over Mike, my wife would be happy to manage your daily work load.
I'm sure she would! (You too, I'll bet) :D
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Re: Creating Marquetry with Aspire

Post by BalloonEngineer »

While you are waiting for your bits from China, check out a seller on eBay “drillman1”. He has some tiny bits (I’ve seen .010 inches, might have even smaller), ships quickly from Texas via USPS, will only charge one shipping charge no matter how many bits you order. I’ve had very good luck with the U.S. made Kyocera branded ones. China prices, U.S. quality.

Tinker and Tinker (Precisebits) also have small bits, but they are pricier (excellent quality, however).

No relationship to either except as a customer.

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Re: Creating Marquetry with Aspire

Post by mezalick »

Well, well....Sand Shading....
Learned something new today...
So, You can teach an old dog new tricks...

Thanks...

Michael
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Re: Creating Marquetry with Aspire

Post by scottp55 »

+1 on Drillman's shipping and consistent quality.

Yup, Michael, had to Google it myself:)
May just have to get my cast Dutch Oven cleaned up and buy some sand to putz with perhaps Vinlay and see how it affects fit.
Thanks guys!!

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scott
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