waste board surfacing

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mailman
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waste board surfacing

Post by mailman »

I am going surface a new piece of MDF is the best bit to use a mortise bit, I see Rockler has a 1 -1/4 frued mortise bit for $24.00. Thanks, Mark

CLyon
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by CLyon »

That will certainly do it. I think each of us have developed our own favorite approach. I use a Her-Saf bit with replaceable inserts. It has served me well, especially as I have surfaced many rough cut slabs - many square ft. of oak! More expensive up front, less expensive in the long run.

Large diameter, big step over, very accurate alignment of router with table will all make it simple, fast and accurate.

mailman
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by mailman »

Thanks again for all the help. Mark

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Phil
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by Phil »

I use a 3/4" straight bit. My table is 24 x 32. I decided to use a bit that I already have. It takes about 10 minutes.

mailman
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by mailman »

thanks Phil, what feed rate and spindle speed is best, aslo do I set my waste board size in V-Carve by using the rectangle drawing tool, I noticed my 1.25" mortise bit is not listed as a tool option, how do I indicate my tool. On the clear pocket option should I use raster or offset. Is ther a standard cut depth for each time I surface my MDF Sorry about all the questions , first time. Thanks , Mark

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Phil
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by Phil »

Hi Mark,
you didn't mention what type of machine you have. If you have a Shopbot, that's what I have, there is a program included which simplifies surfacing.
To answer your questions; I used the defaults speeds and feeds in the VCarve database for the 3/4" bit. For MDF I don't think it makes any difference whether you use raster or offset.
If you are going to use a tool that is not in your database you can use the copy option in the database to create a new tool. I usually pick one as close as possible to the one I need and make the necessary changes.

mailman
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by mailman »

Thanks again Phil. Mark

mailman
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by mailman »

OK I have one more dumb question, how do I zero or center a flat bottom bit with such a big diameter 1.25 " on the X, Y. since there is no (V) or point to line up, I hope you understand. Thanks ,Mark

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Phil
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by Phil »

Low tech way is to place a piece of paper on the table, lower the bit in very small increments until it "grabs the paper".

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RoutnAbout
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by RoutnAbout »

mailman,
mailman wrote:OK I have one more dumb question, how do I zero or center a flat bottom bit with such a big diameter 1.25 " on the X, Y. since there is no (V) or point to line up, I hope you understand. Thanks ,Mark
Phil wrote:Low tech way is to place a piece of paper on the table, lower the bit in very small increments until it "grabs the paper".
To manually find X,Y Zero:

Take small steps in the Y direction until the side of your tool touches the "X" edge of your part, Check your readouts and then raise tool above your part and move your tool in the positive "Y" direction until you have traveled half the distance of the diameter of your tool. Then Zero your "Y"
Repeat the same procedure on the left edge of your part to find your "X" zero location.

And the information that Phil posted will find your "Z" zero for any tool.
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mailman
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by mailman »

Thanks again. Mark

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anxious
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by anxious »

CLyon wrote:That will certainly do it. I think each of us have developed our own favorite approach. I use a Her-Saf bit with replaceable inserts. It has served me well, especially as I have surfaced many rough cut slabs - many square ft. of oak! More expensive up front, less expensive in the long run.

Large diameter, big step over, very accurate alignment of router with table will all make it simple, fast and accurate.
Interesting, I have heard ton's of folks using MDF of various thicknesses for a spoilboard. My router interestingly uses butyl rubber in 5" wide strips with 1" gaps which serve as T-Slots. The manufacturer would like 400+ bucks for replacement rubber (not very cost effective) and I have loved it as a surface. The original owner cut more than a few times down into the aluminum vacum base which supports the rubber and I've though many times of pulling the rubber to replace it with MDF, but Oak?

You indicate long term it's more cost effective than MDF. Do you screw parts to the surface or simply use it as a flat base? Do you pull vacum to hold down parts, or how do you hold down parts? Oak is an intriging option. Thanks in advance.

knighttoolworks
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by knighttoolworks »

I keep the rpms down to keep the mess down. otherwise the dust will fly out from under the dust skirt. maybe 8k at most. this makes more of a grain type dust over the finer fly around dust.

snapajap
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by snapajap »

Dumb question I am sure....Is there a function in VcarvePro or a simple way to have it level the waste board? I have a Shapeoko3 XL

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scottp55
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Re: waste board surfacing

Post by scottp55 »

This may help...Last week's free training open to all from Shopbot forum:)
Spoilboard Surfacing;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhx3TuW ... e=youtu.be
I've learned my lesson well. You can't please everyone,so you have to please yourself
R.N.

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