Rounded bases of pockets.

[sharkcutup]

I use a .5" (radius .25") pointed roundover bit using the PROFILE toolpath 'ON' (Machine Vectors...) the vector line at a .25" depth which centers the bit over the vector thereby cutting a .25" radius on the upper edge. NO OFFSET REQUIRED!

You are working too hard friend! Make use of the software features! Use 'ON' the machine vector... and whatever radius bit you use set the cut depth to its radius dimension (1/2 the diameter of roundover bit). You can continue to do it the way you have found just move/offset the vector the required/determined amount and continue using 'Inside/Left' instead of 'ON' the Machine Vector...

Lets say you wanted a .375" radius on the inside edge that would require a .75 diameter bit "ON' the vector line. Of Course now if you do not wish to go through the expense of all the various radiused bits you could always use the moulding tool path with a ballnose bit (VERY TIME CONSUMING) -- creating moulding toolpath not to mention the actual carving time using a ball nosed bit).
But then again this is only my opinion --- to each his own so they say, LOL!

Hoping this helps!!!

Sharkcutup

[SteveNelson46]

Something like this? One tool, one toolpath but it does require a special bit.

[highpockets]

highpockets - That is very similar to what I am attempting, am I right in thinking that the small squigly line is the one used for the moulding toolpath, and what bit would you use for this?

Ollie, yes the "squigly" is the "profile" for the Moulding Toolpath. The only two tools that were used, 1/8" BN and 1/8" EM.

Rounded Bases of pockets.zip

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[Ollie]

Great progress.

I have done it using the method suggested by sharkcutup. I had to make up a suitable radius cutter to simulate the box bit just using a 25mm endmill with 9mm radius, so the bottom of the pocket went well. I entered this in pocket mode and the software inserted a roughing pass for me with a flat end mill.
However I still found myself having to use 9mm offset and inside left for the roundover (using 9mm roundover bit) this is primarily because I can`t seem to enter a roundover bit that goes to a point, the one in the list has a flat in it.
Anyway I can work around that so good for now anyway.

Going to try a profile method next.

Cheers

Ollie

[sharkcutup]

Ollie,

To Create a Pointed Roundover Bit in your Tool Database.

First you will need to draw a RIGHT side profile view of the Roundover bit as in the image shown using the dimensions of your bit. In my example it is a .375 radius roundover bit (.75 Dia.)

Be sure the router bit profile you had drawn is highlighted in your drawing.
Click on Form Tools in the Tool Database to highlight this if of course it is where you want the roundover bit stored.
Under 'Tool Type' Select - Form Tool when you do this the profile will show up in full in the tool database with the dimensions you used when you created the router bit profile drawing.
All you need to do is make sure that the Diameter is correctly designated and make the necessary adjustments for feeds and speeds for your machine and you might want to add or take away from the Name of the Tool.
Click Apply and it will be added to your Tool Database.

Any Questions do not hesitate to ask!

Sharkcutup

[Ollie]

I have done it.

I bought the licence and managed to do a test project with rounded bottoms of the pockets.

Its a sort of organizer thing.
I did a toolpath with a 12.7mm round ended cutter and the software added a roughing pass for me, I did a Vcarve logo (Alvis, its for my Dad who has a vintage Alvis car), cut out the outside with tabs left then used a 12mm v bit to bevel the edges. So 5 toolpaths.

The dimensions are 300mm by 180mm or something like that, the thickness is 40mm. I cut the holes 25mm deep.

The wood is a bit of Utile I had laying around. Put a wipe of Osmo oil on it.

My only complaint about it is most likely down to user error, there is a slight discrepancy between the height of the flat bottom and the round corner, the round cut maybe a quarter of a mm deeper. This is because I can`t get my auto z height plate to work right now and had to use the unsatisfactory "bit of paper" method.

I also found afterwards that as I did not set a ramp to the toolpaths cutting out the outer shape there was a bit of a mark where it plunged in the same place 5 for each pass, most noticeable on the outer wall. I am assuming you can set this so it either ramps in smoothly or plunges in a different place for each pass.

I did like the way vcarve does a careful little extra cut when rounding the corners where it goes back over a tiny bit each way to ensure smoothness, this was very noticeable on the oval pockets.

I am happy for a first go and I am sure I will get the hang of it.

Thanks for your help.

Ollie

[gkas]

Looks great. I looked up a 'Alvis' car. VERY COOL. A great bit of style.

...but what's Utile? What type of wood finish is Osmo Oil?

[Ollie]

Cheers gkas

They are a cool car. I loved his old Speed 20 from the 1930s but he has a td21 at the moment.

Utile is an African hardwood similar to Sapele and Bubinga. I use it for making windows and doors etc, it comes in big boards with very little knots or anything.

Osmo is a floor oil, its a bit like danish oil but less stinky and its kid safe for toys etc. I wipe it on with a rag leave it 10 mins then wipe off excess, dries overnight.

Ollie

[martin54]

When your setting up the toolpath you will see the option towards the bottom of the form for ramps, leads etc, think its just below the tabs part
I use ramps for almost every think. For tool marks if the ramp doesn't sort your problem then you can use a lead in & out where the cutter starts away from your actual part.
I often find a straight fluted cutter gives a much better finish than a spiral for profile cutouts. A lot of that depends what sort of wood I am cutting. Not sure why you haven't tried a radiused bit as was mentioned by someone (bowl Cutting router bit). You wouldn't have to worry about a small step if your z zero setting was off, less toolpaths & less bit changes

Looks like you are getting the hang of it, takes a bit of time to learn some of the features & how to get the best out of the machine but your heading in the right direction

[sharkcutup]

AWESOME!!!

It looks great!

Glad to have been able to help! This forum is a great place for help!

Sharkcutup

[scottp55]

VERY nice Piece!
Congrats!!
scott

[sunnshol]

My question is related, but maybe someone can suggest another way to do it. I am cutting slots for fret wires in radiused fretboards, and would like to radius the cuts as well, rather than make them straight across. It's not a big thing but if someone can suggest a way I'd appreciate it. It's a single pass cut with a .,5 mm endmill. I was going to use a pocket but maybe there's another way?