2 questions.

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cusoak
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2 questions.

Post by cusoak »

First Question I created a straight vector then put a .25 circle on it then using the array tool I I created an array of 7 .25 holes 2'' spacing. Will that worked well. But I wanted them to be centered 2" apart. what did I do wrong and how can I get them spaced on centered

Second question I want to see how the Dado gadget worked so I created a rectangle then was .5 wide and 8" long, used the Dado gadget it put a straight like through the rectangle. That seemed alright to me.
I used a .25 end mil to do the pocket tool path with a depth of .25. the result was that I did not get a .5" with Dado so where did I go wrong.
Or did I need a .5 dia end mil
Thanks jeff

4DThinker
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Re: 2 questions.

Post by 4DThinker »

I. Use Offset instead of Gap.

2. Yes, a .5" end mill would have made a .5" wide dado either pocketing the rectangle OR profiling ON the line. . I could be more specific but I've never used the dado gadget.

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Re: 2 questions.

Post by tomgardiner »

I can't help you with the Dado gadget (never used it) but for the array problem - there are two buttons to choose from in the spacing fields. 'Gap' and 'Offset'. I think you have used the Gap option giving you a centre to centre spacing of 2.25" (the gap between the circles is 2"). If you offset the circles the centre to centre will be 2" but the gap (the space between the two objects will be 1.75").
Both options will be useful to you in particular circumstances.

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Adrian
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Re: 2 questions.

Post by Adrian »

cusoak wrote:Second question I want to see how the Dado gadget worked so I created a rectangle then was .5 wide and 8" long, used the Dado gadget it put a straight like through the rectangle. That seemed alright to me.
I used a .25 end mil to do the pocket tool path with a depth of .25. the result was that I did not get a .5" with Dado so where did I go wrong.
Or did I need a .5 dia end mil
Thanks jeff
I wrote the dado gadget to be used with an end mill the same size as the dado so you would need a .5" one in your case. The idea of it is that it's easier to draw a design using rectangles but, if you have the right size bit, it's far faster to do the toolpaths as a single line rather than a pocket.

cusoak
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Re: 2 questions.

Post by cusoak »

The other part of the problem is that the melamine I am using is .513 of an inch thick.So I guess I an stuck with a rectangle and cut on the inside. with my 25. em
Jeff

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IslaWW
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Re: 2 questions.

Post by IslaWW »

You might want to consider using a 3/8 endmill or compression to do that operation, especially if you do the math
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cusoak
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Re: 2 questions.

Post by cusoak »

Could you explain more how a 3/8 end mil will help
Jeff

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Re: 2 questions.

Post by IslaWW »

When cutting a rectangular dado that is not "bit sized" the fastest way is to use a profile inside, rather than a pocket. This is best done with a bit that is larger than half the dado width. Yours was .513, a 3/8 will cut .513 dados much quicker and cleaner than a 1/4", which would require an additional pass.
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cusoak
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Re: 2 questions.

Post by cusoak »

Thanks Got it
Jeff

cusoak
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Re: 2 questions.

Post by cusoak »

If I could find a 1/4" shank 3/8" plunge router bit. Will that work.
My router is a dewalt 611

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Re: 2 questions.

Post by adze_cnc »

Remember that if you creating a full-width dado (through cut) that you'll need to extend the closed shape for either the pocket or profile toolpath beyond the edge of the object you are "dado-ing". See attached image an CRV file (bad vs good dado).

Steven
Through dadoes: bad (left); good (right)
Through dadoes: bad (left); good (right)
Attachments
bad_vs_good_dado.crv
(43.5 KiB) Downloaded 48 times

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Re: 2 questions.

Post by ger21 »

cusoak wrote:If I could find a 1/4" shank 3/8" plunge router bit. Will that work.
My router is a dewalt 611
https://www.amanatool.com/45216-carbide ... shank.html
Gerry - http://www.thecncwoodworker.com

cusoak
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Re: 2 questions.

Post by cusoak »

I do make the rectangles longer than the width of the board.

Jeff

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