using a different dia bit

[cusoak]

I am making a plaque that has text welded in to the top of the board. It will simulate using a 1/16" end mil ok.
But the problem is I want to cut it out of 5/8" thick material.
The only bit I have that will cut that thickness is a 1/8"end mil.
I changed the tool to the 1/8" bit and ran the cut. It did not cut everything out that showed in the 1/16" view.
The tool path was set up to cut on the out side of the line. I ran the 1/16" toolpath on .25 material and it cut just fine
So is that because the soft ware knew there was not room enough for the bit to cut there.
Do you think that I can just use the 1/8" end mill and run the 1/16" tool path.
Jeff

[martin54]

Not sure I fully understand the question Jeff, the software doesn't know the length of the tool you are using so a 1/16" bit should show the same regardless of what thickness the material, the only difference would be if you were using a tappered bit where a side angle is specified in the tool set up.
If you run the 1/16" toolpath with the 1/8" bit you are likely to end up with what the 1/8" toolpath shows or worse because it will fit the bit in areas there it physically won't fit destroying parts of your project.

[mtylerfl]

Hi Jeff,

The 1/8” Bit cannot fit into the same nooks and crannies as a 1/16”.

When designing, I will often draw a circle representing the diameter of the Bit I plan to use. Actually a teeny amount larger than the diameter to be in the safe side.

This circle is a handy reference during the design process. I can move the circle into tight corners or spaces to see if the Bit will fit or not.

If the Bit won’t fit, I will adjust/edit my design until it does fit. Then I will create Toolpaths to view the simulation using that bit diameter to see the actual result.

So, you have a choice. Either enlarge and/or edit your design so the 1/8” Bit will fit into your tight spots, or use your smaller 1/16” bit and use the thinner material suitable for that bit.

[Xxray]

Why wouldn't a 1/16 cut 5/8 ?
I cut thicker than that with a 1/32, I must be misunderstanding something here.

[cusoak]

If I want to post pictures here of the pieces I cut showing the 2 different bits to explain what happened. What do I need to do to make that happen
Jeff

[cusoak]

What size and resolution.

[mtylerfl]

Why wouldn't a 1/16 cut 5/8 ?
I cut thicker than that with a 1/32, I must be misunderstanding something here.

I assume the bit Jeff has on hand doesn’t have the proper length of cut for 5/8” material. My 1/16” EM’s max out at 1/2” LOC (but I could certainly buy longer ones, of course).

[mtylerfl]

If I want to post pictures here of the pieces I cut showing the 2 different bits to explain what happened. What do I need to do to make that happen
Jeff

I think we already understand, Jeff. You used a 1/8” Bit for a design suited for a 1/16” Bit. Therefore, the Bit left behind material and/or removed material that you didn’t intend because the wrong Bit was used for your current design.

You can post photos if you want by using the attachment feature of the forum when you create your message. If the photo is too large, you will get an error. I post photos with 96dpi resolution or 72dpi resolution at a size 550 pixels to 750 pixels or thereabouts.

[Adrian]

If you run the 1/8" bit on a toolpath designed for a 1/16" bit then the parts are going to be fractionally too small as 1/32" of the bit will basically be cutting inside the vector. This is because the toolpath is calculated from the centre of the bit in relation to the inside/on/outside cutting method selected. In the drawing attached the green circle is a 1/16" bit and the red circle is a 1/8" bit.

Whether any of that is a problem for what you're making is something you would have to determine. Also on tight spots the large bit might remove material from parts already cut and curves will be slightly out as well.

[ezurick]

Why on earth would you run a toolpath on a bit other than what is setup? I don't understand.

However, I think I agree with Michael which I have run into situations where my 1/8 bit with a 1/4" shaft is not long enough to cut through a normal .75 " board. I have to use my 1/4" for most cut outs. In my personal situation, if there are areas that require small precision, I use my scroll saw. lol.

[cusoak]

I have not found anything longer than .5" CL for a 1/16" end mil.If you know of some place then please let me know and I will buy one.
Jeff

[Adrian]

Personally I would change the vectors to suit the bit I had available but using a different tool can work in certain circumstances.

[mtylerfl]

Why wouldn't a 1/16 cut 5/8 ?
I cut thicker than that with a 1/32, I must be misunderstanding something here.

Hi Doug,

Do you have a particular source for 1/16” and 1/32” EM’s that have 5/8” cutting lengths you can refer us to?

(I’m still scratching my head how a 1/32” EM doesn’t snap off when cutting that deep - unless you are talking about cutting foam or something.)

[cusoak]

If you have a 1/16" dia..5 inch cuter with a 1/8: dia shank then it would bottom out at the shank before it would cut all the way through 5/8" thick material

[Xxray]

Why wouldn't a 1/16 cut 5/8 ?
I cut thicker than that with a 1/32, I must be misunderstanding something here.

Hi Doug,

Do you have a particular source for 1/16” and 1/32” EM’s that have 5/8” cutting lengths you can refer us to?

(I’m still scratching my head how a 1/32” EM doesn’t snap off when cutting that deep - unless you are talking about cutting foam or something.)

Was thinking of a tapered endmill and not specifically "cutting" but doing 3d work, in which case a rough pass would remove most of the material anyhow