What type glue do you use for Vcarve inlays..?

[Doug98105]

My concern is the almost inevitable wood movement due to humidity changes. The problem might be worse when inlaying dissimilar woods for contrast.

The glue should allow for a little micro movement while still maintaining its bond I'd think.

Has your favorite glue held up over a period of years?

[LittleGreyMan]

I just made some tests a while ago and used woodworkers white glue (PVA). Last time I saw them, they were still OK after a few years.

If you are using the Zank V-Inlay Procedure [Zank VIP], I'd say the glue is not the main issue as its principle is to create a conical contact between male and female shapes.

So the parts are highly constrained.

If you undergo large humidity variations and expect durability, the key is probably choosing woods with closed behavior regarding moisture and use the same grain orientation. Glue is probably not the main factor.

[ger21]

Standard PVA (Titebond) glue is stronger than the wood itself when the joints are tight fitting.

[laflippin]

I've been using Titebond III for projects like inlaid cutting boards, birdhouses, outdoor signs and furniture because the manufacturer claims it is waterproof and gives the strongest bond of the Titebond series of wood glues. For the typically small projects I do, a gallon of Titebond III is reasonably priced and lasts for a long, long time. For routine use, I transfer the bulk glue to small squeeze bottles.

://www.titebond.com/community/the-big-three

[martin54]

How are you finishing the projects? Changes in humidity shouldn't affect the wood to much if it has been sealed properly from my understanding

[ger21]

How are you finishing the projects? Changes in humidity shouldn't affect the wood to much if it has been sealed properly from my understanding

Actually, they will affect it the same, but at a much slower rate.
Finish slows the migration of moisture, but doesn't stop it.

[tomgardiner]

If you are finishing with oil type finish (Danish oil, tung, linseed etc) you might find that PVA will swell and bead after finishing. I think PVA will absorb oil and expand. I haven't had a joint fail despite it though.
Epoxy has the advantage of being non shrinking and is clear so it fills any gaps without being apparent.

[laflippin]

For cutting boards I finish with food-grade mineral oil. Birdhouses, furniture, and signs generally get several coats of polyurethane.

I haven't noticed any problems from the finish interacting with Titebond III-glued joints, but maybe it's just too soon to tell? I was going to start experimenting with epoxy based on advice from another Vectric forum member but haven't gotten up the courage to do it yet. Each time I get ready to do a glue-up I ask myself, "Is this the project that I want to use as a guinea pig for experimenting with a different glue?"...Guess what my knee-jerk answer is to that question.

[Xxray]

Titebond, never thought much about any differences in 1, 2 or3.

There is a top inlay guru on the cam forum just by chance this subject came up, he says he tried epoxy only once and never used it again "because it changes the colour around the edges of the inlay", so I'm not going to experiment especially since I have had good consistent results with titebond.

This is what the cam inlay guru [Russell Crawford, I think he posts here not sure] uses, now that I'm going to try.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 42965&ap=1

[Rcnewcomb]

Titebond, never thought much about any differences in 1, 2 or 3.

Titebond original is for indoor use only.
Titebond II stains redwood nearly dark black and is real pain to sand out. (AMHIK)



Lots of good information here:
The primary differences between Titebond Original, Titebond II, Titebond III
Differences Between Titebond Glues