I'd recommend John's method, but never personally used it (but just bought materials to try it).
After trial and error we came up with a method remarkably Like Russ's;https://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26319&start=30
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BUT didn't have any vinyl transfer tape, so used Duck brand "No Residue Duct Tape" and Ace Hardware 1.88" double sided carpet tape in pic because on the other sizes the paper sticks awful.
Used this method on waxed HDO for thousands of buttons and keyfobs down to 1"D and cutting out with Drillman1's .25" 60 degree vbit and whiteside .5" .25"Radius point cutting roundover which has a LOT more force than yours.
Most were .2" thick.
Closest thing to your project I've personally done with no problems was some "Twig" butterfly joint inlays(.22" thick) for an Ebony piece that developed a crack on Mom's XMas present...so I just used the same set up as buttons, and it worked a charm. Pics look like it's not a clean cut, but I cut a little deep and that was sawdust mixed with carpet tape residue and came of with rubbing my finger across it.
Been thinking of trying CA between two pieces of the No Residue Duck Tape, but haven't needed it yet.
IF I had tried masking tape/CA personally......?
IF! Your material were totally flat on the spoilboard, then I might try just letting the Downcut pack the kerf with sawdust and hold it in place like a fair amount of people do after experimenting. AND if going .005" deeper than material for the cut out, I'd make the last pass .01" to leave just a skin to be cut on the last pass.
That takes a perfectly flat spoilboard, and I'd reference to the spoilboard.
Just thought I'd mention it.
Oh, Maybe nest a lot closer together, and possibly group the individual types of parts for all the trucks together for tighter nesting and less sheets?
I hate screws, but they're better than having the sheet bowing. After nesting and toolpathing, make a circle larger than diameter of screw head, and with actual cut showing in blue in 2D view, place circles in areas that are safe.