Fortified paper?

[bferster]

I am looking to introduce other colors and textures into my marquetry other than wood veneers. I've tried all kinds of paper, but it won't cut well on the CNC and falls apart when I glue it down and then sand it. I want to fortify the paper somehow to give it more strength. 
Have any of you ever tried this in your work?

[TReischl]

Well, no. Sounds like something that would have a serious chance of never working.

That said, there are all sorts of veneers in colors available. If that is not enough then you can start dying your own veneers. I would recommend an alcohol based dye to avoid issues with water wrinkling things like crazy.

I have done some marquetry using my own home made veneers. I like mine a bit on the thicker side, like .062 inch. Use 2500mw laser to cut them on a homemade vac box. Works out pretty darn well. Takes a few passes with a weak laser like that, should probably buy a more powerful one, but it is not something I do a lot of. . . .

Oops, almost forget, sheet plastic works well. Also, I have 3D printed things and inlaid them. All sorts of colors in the 3D printing world. And, you can easily do textures. Plus, 3D printers are downright cheap.

[bferster]

That’s an interesting idea, 3d printing the inlays.

[mtylerfl]

I immediately thought of decoupage as a possible means to simulate inlay marquetry.

Here is a wiki link describing decoupage, you may find interesting:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decoupage

I used the traditional “flat” decoupage technique on several box lids when I was about 9 or 10 years old. Multiple coats of varnish (40 coats or so) over flat paper cutout(s) glued to the flat surface of each box top. It was laborious and time-consuming back then. After several coats, careful sanding with very fine wet sandpaper between subsequent coats of varnish was required. This was called “milking” due to the wet, milky-colored residue created from this process. (Wiped off the “milk”, then added more coats of varnish, repeat…)

The goal was to apply enough coats of varnish to fully embed the paper with no visible nor “feel” of any height difference between the wood and paper. The surface was perfectly flat and perfectly smooth.

Now, we can build-up the layers of varnish much faster with thicker varnish formulations available today.

[bferster]

I never thought of varnish, but that would probably work. I tried soaking the paper in watered down white glue, but the paper didn’t absorb enough of it. I’m trying to avoid going the resin route.

[Tailmaker]

.....Now, we can build-up the layers of varnish much faster with thicker varnish formulations available today.

Or maybe use thin CA glue to soak (possibly also attach) the paper? No shrink and a whiff of accelerator will set it.

[bferster]

I never thought of varnish, but that would probably work. I tried soaking the paper in watered down white glue, but the paper didn’t absorb enough of it. I’m trying to avoid going the resin route.

[Rcnewcomb]

Think you want to create fiber strips.

Look at the examples from Gurian Instruments

[GeneMpls]

Those look interesting- I could not find what the fiber is?