V-Carve text inlay project

[Phil]

I've been asked to make an inlaid sign. I have a lot of CNC experience but this will be my 1st inlay. The sign will be a 3/4" x 17" x 34" maple base with walnut (probably) letters. The word Stationery is 4" tall. I've watched a few videos on the topic and I am clear on the process. My questions are on bit selection and depth of cut.
Should I use a 60 degree bit or a 90?
What depth of cut is suitable for letters of this size?

Thanks in advance,

Phil

[FixitMike]

I would use the sharper (60 degree) V bit because you have so many narrow lines. With the full V cut for the depth. Be sure to remove all of the fuzzies before gluing.

You may wish to cut the inlay into sections and glue them into place a couple of letters at a time. Also, I put a couple of coats of finish on the base before cutting. Makes it easier to remove glue squeeze out.

[Steve Misher]

What font is that? It looks real nice

[Phil]

The layout was created by a professional graphic artist. The font is Trajan with a little artistic flair on the "O". I've done many signs for this business which is being re-purposed to house a variety of small business. It was originally a specialty paper facility. It was owned by Crane Co. in Dalton, MA. Crane produces all of the paper for our currency.

Phil

[Phil]

Hi Mike, you posted to use a 60 degree bit at full depth. I assume that would be for the female cut. This would be .390". One video I watched said that should be done in one cut, not multiple cuts for full depth. Do you agree?
Also, should I use the same depth for the male inlay part?

Thanks,

Phil

[FixitMike]

Phil, For the female, the number of cuts will depend upon the diameter of the V bit, the width of the cut, the tool pass depth, tool stepover, and the flat depth. The result is the same if it requires multiple passes. See Help, Help Contents for the VCarve toolpath to see how this works. .390" may be more than you want for the full depth of a single pass. It depends upon the capabilities of your CNC machine.

Another suggestion: Sand a slight flat on the "peaks" of the male inlay, except where they will be forming sharp lines on the finished sign.

The settings for both parts work as shown in this picture. As you can see, the settings for the male affect the relationship of the pieces differently from how the settings for the female do. Personally, I go for a .040" space between the bottom of the female and the deepest part of the male. However, your sign has wider lines than I have in my projects, so you might want to boost that to .060" I feel the document about VCarve inlays that calls for a 0.10" space is incorrect. (Space at bottom = female flat depth minus male start depth.)

[FixitMike]

Some more suggestions:
1. Try making an inlay of one or two letters on similar scrap wood to learn the technique (and possible problems). (Walk before you run.)
2. Be absolutely sure the glue is cured before removing the male inlay. If the bottle says 24 hours, let it sit 48 hours.

Note: if the sign is wood and going to be outdoors, it will age. No way around it. Time and weather will take its toll.

[Phil]

Thanks, Mike.

Phil

[martin54]

I would pretty much go along with what Mike has said, not done many inlays myself so have had a practice go on the jobs that I have done, don't need to do the whole sign, just a couple of letters was all I did
I would also break it up into smaller sections as Mike has suggested, makes it a bit easier to handle & get the alignment right.

Oh and also the spelling is wrong, the Factory isn't moving so it should read Stationary Factory

[Phil]

Thanks for your reply, Martin. I'll mention to the owner of the Stationery Factory that you said; Oh and also the spelling is wrong, the Factory isn't moving so it should read Stationary Factory

Phil