How do you know the OP is carving to a depth of 0.2" ?
Being new they may have set the max depth to 0.2" & thought that was the depth it cut which was why I asked. They may well have measured it, checked the preview or toolpath to find the depth but we don't know that
As I said earlier without the file, a screenshot or some more info from the OP it's really just a guessing game
You can set the flat depth to any value you want, with 1/16" high text in a font with a very thin stroke you could set it to 0.2" without any problems at all, it will never carve anywhere near that deep but it doesn't stop you setting it
Not something I have done myself but there was some advice on the forum about using a flat bottom for text if you were going to fill the text in with resin or some other kind of infill so you used less of it
Which tool do I need
Re: Which tool do I need
When you select a tool, and in that particular tool settings, it says I think something about cutting parameters ( pass depth ) is at 0.2 I guess I presumed that was what it was cutting. I have to apologize to everyone because I said my 60Deg v-bit was ok. I checked it with my calipers and it is .5 When I select the 60Deg v-bit the default is .25. I'll have to change it.
- wmgeorge
- Vectric Craftsman
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Re: Which tool do I need
So is it a 90 Deg or 60 Deg, and thanks for posting the actual diameter. Yes it does make a difference in the preview vs the actual cut.Joeshark wrote:When you select a tool, and in that particular tool settings, it says I think something about cutting parameters ( pass depth ) is at 0.2 I guess I presumed that was what it was cutting. I have to apologize to everyone because I said my 60Deg v-bit was ok. I checked it with my calipers and it is .5 When I select the 60Deg v-bit the default is .25. I'll have to change it.
Re: Which tool do I need
Thank you wmgeorge, it is a 60deg v-bit. I think I'll just make up a new tool with my 60deg bit. What would help me a lot is can you tell me where in the program I can change the cutting depth. I change the cut path from .2 to .1 and it doesn't seem to make a difference. Thanks
- martin54
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Re: Which tool do I need
If you are looking to change the pass depth for the tool then you would generally do that in the tool database if it is to be a permanent change , that is also where you want to create your new 60 degree Vbit, you can copy the existing default 60 degree V bit & then change the diameter & any other settings that need to be changed, once that has been done if you press apply the changes will be saved.
http://support.vectric.com/tutorials/V9 ... 20database
http://support.vectric.com/tutorials/V9 ... 20database
- newmexico
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Re: Which tool do I need
[attachment=0]Courage.jpeg
We usually add spacing between letters:
WORD
to
W O R D
With softwoods and V90 cutting deeper than 0.125, you can blow out the letters.
Just another helpful hint, we hope.
In the photo:
Wood: Texas Cedar (soft)
Cut with V90 at 0.125
Speed: 65 ipm
All letter spacing was expanded out a bit.
We usually add spacing between letters:
WORD
to
W O R D
With softwoods and V90 cutting deeper than 0.125, you can blow out the letters.
Just another helpful hint, we hope.
In the photo:
Wood: Texas Cedar (soft)
Cut with V90 at 0.125
Speed: 65 ipm
All letter spacing was expanded out a bit.
Re: Which tool do I need
On software I used to support, I liked to tell people that V-Cut or V-Groove letters come out beautiful because the software can juggle many balls. Makes no difference what the letter style is, The thickness of the substrate needs to be considered so depth of cut doesn't cut through. Think of the contours of a roman capital O. If you select V-Cut from the menu, the s/w says, treat this like a roller coaster with rails that can move apart or come together. The V-Bit cutting edges sit on the rails. As the rails move apart, the bit lowers; as they come together, the bit rises. No need to set a depth as long as the bit rests on the rails. Even if the tool is smaller that the rails, the s/w had the intelligence to say run the inside of the letter at some depth and see if the imaginary centerline at the bottom of the groove was met. If not, move the bit inward (offset) go down the next set depth and try again.
This is the kind of routing that takes time to prove out and see how the s/w deals with various settings. One letter is all it takes to play. Then, make notes in your machining note book as to whether the technique works and what specifically is wrong with it.
This is the kind of routing that takes time to prove out and see how the s/w deals with various settings. One letter is all it takes to play. Then, make notes in your machining note book as to whether the technique works and what specifically is wrong with it.