Proper bit to use

[ger21]

I use a router for a spindle, with a Super PID speed control, and drill at 5000rpm, at 50ipm. That's as fast as my old machine will go. I've never had any burning issues.
I've been bench testing some 2.2Kw air cooled spindles for my new machine, and they seem to have plenty of power at 6000rpm for drilling 1/8" holes. But, I'll probably run them at 8000rpm, and drill at 100-150 ipm.

[martin54]

I use a router for a spindle, with a Super PID speed control, and drill at 5000rpm, at 50ipm. That's as fast as my old machine will go. I've never had any burning issues.
I've been bench testing some 2.2Kw air cooled spindles for my new machine, and they seem to have plenty of power at 6000rpm for drilling 1/8" holes. But, I'll probably run them at 8000rpm, and drill at 100-150 ipm.

I know people who run them at 6000 RPM with no problem as I have already said but mine has absolutely no torque at that speed, I could probably stop it with one finger & very light pressure
Problem as I am sure you are aware is that you need to be careful with anything you buy from China from an auction site, I obviously wasn't careful enough when I purchased my spindle & VFD
Having said that it has done well with pretty much all the other stuff I have done with it & I have now had it for 5 years or so. Can't really complain to much

[Mobius]

Just going to throw my 2c in here... when making cribbage boards I use a 0.125" 1 flute spiral 'O' bit and peck drill @ 15k RPM and 30 in/min.

The spiral IMO makes it ideal for this type of operation, as it is essentially ramping itself into the material.

[Leo]

A single flute end mill has a very large gullet for chip clearance. I would only be concerned with the one flute pulling uneven on the bit, and maybe cause a little oversized condition. The sides of the end mill do cut. On a drill the margins (sides of the drill) do not cut, but act as a guide to help the drill along on it's journey into the hole.

As to the OP - this is all relative to the post. He mentioned that an end mill or drill would not make much difference. So, there is a lot to learn about the difference between a drill and an end mill.

[Leo]

Actually, I am impressed with the spiral plunge using a .1094 mill. The drill is still faster and is a stronger tool. Possible to push the drill even faster.

stripped for forum BRIANS BOARD LADY ACTUAL BOARD FRONT (1).crv

(1.82 MiB) Downloaded 68 times

[martin54]

On a drill the margins (sides of the drill) do not cut, but act as a guide to help the drill along on it's journey into the hole.


Leo they also join the tip or cutting part to the shank, without them the tip would just fall off the shank when you turned the drill bit upside down, oh & it also wouldn't turn when the shank did

[Leo]

Usually when the tip falls off, I call it a broken drill.

Somebody will ask - "what happened?"

I will say the end fell off.

[scottp55]

You guys
Leo, THANKS for doing that!
I notice the toolpath didn't have a Peck....is that because a .36" pass wouldn't build enough heat in wood?
I added one Peck at .18", but didn't know if it should be retracting above the material, or only above the previous pass(on drill press I always retract fully).

I see I was 1.4-3X too slow in my Plunge speed, and 2K too high on RPM's according to you and GER....THANKS!!

In first initial test with VCP7, and using the drill/peck option, we did try an Onsrud 1F super-O .125" D, and the holes were too big for Casey's painted wooden pegs at .25" cut depth, and after a few days of torture testing...they even bottomed out on a .3" cut depth due to peg and hole deformation.
Swage on that 61-040(?) .25" shank bit prevented deeper passes, AND then we added a countersink which made it worse.

I imagine I've managed to thoroughly obfuscate the issue, and confuse the OP
BUT, it did get me back on the Forum:)

The Forums are WONDERFUL,and Just a half hour ago got a belated Christmas lithopane of one of my pics of my Wood Ducks swimming in the Beaver pond which TOTALLY blew me away

The members of this and Shopbot's Forum are informative and WONDERFUL People!!!
scott

[Pete Cyr]

https://www.toolstoday.com/high-perform ... steel.html
These are very good for drilling with a CNC - and they are made for it.

[scottp55]

Pete,
We did try a MM (Mill Monster=average quality) Drill Mill, and I can see from the 3 year old data I was WAY off probably on feeds/speeds.
I found the VBit section didn't cut as clean, and the side cut was way rougher than Drillman's one purpose bits...probably the quality of MM's bits(there a very few I use anymore).
For a Drill application like this, what have you had good luck with for feeds/speeds in denser hardwoods, so I can get my database a little better for that type bit?
Thanks,
scott

[Rubiconlwb]

It is quite obvious from the comments here that I know absolutely nothing about what I am about to embark on but with help from the experts, I hope to have some success. The most sophisticated I have been to date in making my cribbage boards is a 1/8" brad point drill bit in a drill press with a fence to try to get the holes to line up in a straight line (most of the time it works pretty well). I have made probably 150 wooden cribbage boards of various woods using this method and it has worked well but drilling 265 holes one at a time with fence changes along the way does take a while. My main question was if a mill end bit would work as a drill and apparently it will not so I will go with a brad point drill bit. I watched a video and have my board set up to peck three times for each hole. Right now I am trying to learn the software and once I receive my CNC router, I will learn by experimentation. I'm very excited about all the possibilities this machine will present to me. Thanks for the responses.

[Leo]

Scott,

The real issue with drilling is filling up the flutes with chips and burying the flutes in the hole. The main reason for the peck, to evacuate the chips. The hole is 3x, meaning it is 3 times deeper than the diameter. That's not really that deep, 1 or 2 pecks may be needed or not. But, I really wanted to blow away your times at the same time, without really fibbing too much.

Rubicon, really, these are the fine points, not really known by all. YES, there is a LOT to learn, but baby steps will prevail and we will help. There is a LOT of talent here.

[ger21]

My main question was if a mill end bit would work as a drill and apparently it will not so I will go with a brad point drill bit.

An end mill will most certainly work. But a drill bit will work better, faster, and is much cheaper. Depending on wood species, you probably don't need a brad point bit.
I think a brad point bit will dull much quicker, as you'll be spinning it much faster than they are designed for.

I'm not sure how deep the holes are, but 2 pecks would probably be fine.

I don't know what kind of machine you are getting, but the machine can have a lot to do with how you go about certain operations. Drilling can put a lot of force on the Z axis, and less rigid machines may exhibit flex while drilling.

[martin54]

As ger21 says an endmill will work drilling your holes & I am sure there are plenty of people who do use an endmill to drill holes with their CNC machines. The experts are just pointing out that this is not the best method to use for what you want to do. If you are making cribbage boards to sell then you want to be using the most efficient & cost effective methods to produce them

[scottp55]

But, I really wanted to blow away your times at the same time, without really fibbing too much.

I think we all learned something:)
I know I did!
scott