Here is how I did it. I cut the relief using PhotoVCarve with these settings: 0.25mm radius tapered ball end mill, 30% step over, .060 max depth of cut, 40 ipm and 15 degree line angle. I set the Z zero .035 below the surface in order to machine a border that will contain the resin and give the finished project a photo like appearance. I do this in one pass and the only prep work I do after that is to remove the fuzzy and loose stuff with a stiff nylon bristle brush. The 15 degree lines are visible but they do not seem to distract in the finished product. Machine time was 3:16.
Next I seal it if I need to. Sealing is necessary if you take this step: Make sure that the project is level Take a syringe filled with water and fill the project with the water to determine how much epoxy or polyester you are going to need. It helps to put a drop of dish soap in the water first in order to break the surface tension of the water which will give you a better result.
Now for the dye. I used Castin' Craft Transparent resin dye. This is the kind of dye that is used to make resin jewelry and the like. When mixing the dye colors to get your desired finished color, in my case brown/sepia and black, it is important to note that you will be using the CMYK color scheme. CMYK color generators are available on the web. The caveat is that cyan, magenta and black are not available colors in this particular dye family so I had to make my own. Cyan is an equal mix of green and blue while magenta is an equal mix of red and blue. Black is made by mixing equal parts of red, green and blue.
To make the brown that I used I mixed 1 part magenta, two parts yellow and one part black (roughly). This particular project uses 30 cc of epoxy mix. I found that one drop of dye per CC worked for me. So it went like this: 8 drops of magenta, 16 drops of yellow and 6 drops of black into 15 cc of resin. Mix thoroughly. Add 15 cc of hardener and mix very thoroughly and pour the mix into your LEVEL project. I helped distribute the epoxy using a small piece of stiff paper/cardboard and there she be. Black is pretty straight forward; 30 drops of black in 15 cc of resin, mix, 15 cc of hardener, mix and there it is.
The brand of epoxy I used is Famowood Glaze Coat. I suspect any brand will work but I am very happy with the working time you get with this product. I don't get to vigorous, but make sure to be thorough, in the mixing process in order to keep the bubbles down. The extended working time does give any bubbles that are in the mix plenty of time to rise to the surface so they can be dealt with. I use a syringe to measure my components in order to assure accuracy. It is important to note that after you add the dye to the resin the volume of the resin component is necessarily increased. DO NOT consider the increase in volume when measuring the hardener. If you use 20 cc of resin then the measure of hardener needs to be appropriate for that volume; in most cases 1 for 1.