Here are a few I made recently, catching up on orders after working almost non stop for 2 months.
All are on white .3 corian, haven't made boxes for them yet, I just hold them up to a light with one hand and snap the cell phone pic with the other.
The one with the little girl in the rain, the guy wanted her name and date but I have never experimented with text on a litho so I talked him out of it. Was thinking about doing an etch on the reverse with a drag bit, in theory it should show through on the other side. But it would probably have to be reverse of a dark area to show decently. I know I could just put black or white lettering within the subject and Pcarve them out, seems to me at the very least that would add quite a bit to the cutting time and might not look to spectacular.
The last pic was at least 10 years old and came from an actual picture, so it was a bit grainy to start with. Considering that I was pleased with the way it turned out, and the guy who ordered it was thrilled. He is a talented woodworker so he is going to make an ornate light box for it.
There were kids running in the background but I managed to edit them out without being too noticeable.
a few lithos
Re: a few lithos
Nice work as always Xxray. What size bits did you use. Rough pass or all one pass.
Curt
Curt
- Xxray
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Re: a few lithos
.125 tapered ballnose, probably average about 3 hours each, not bad for 8x10.
I have found that roughing is unnecessary with lithos, really just a waste of time.
I have found that roughing is unnecessary with lithos, really just a waste of time.
Doug
Re: a few lithos
Thanks
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Re: a few lithos
Yep have to agree with cws, they look good which is something I have come to expect from anything you post on the forum, keep up the good work always nice to see it.
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Re: a few lithos
Oh, I should start posting my botches, would probably outnumber my success stories !
Had a horrible time with the man in the park, ruined 3 pieces before I finally met with success. But I do learn from my errors and hopefully will not repeat the sequence of goofs I made on this one.
My main error was zeroing the Z by eye and feel. Usually on wood or plexi you can lower the spinning bit down and see exactly where it bites in, I also place a finger on the work piece to feel it. So thats where I zero, problem with corian and this method, the tip of the bit is almost needle like, it can easily bite in before it can be seen or felt, thats what happened here twice. First one half way through I saw it cut past the bottom, ruined. Rezeroed and I did it again, not as bad but bad enough.
So my solution was to do what I should have done in the first place - Just use a piece of paper without the bit spinning, lower it down and gives it little bumps down as it approaches the top of the workpiece. When a bump makes it so the paper will not move, I give it 1 bump back up and thats it, perfect.
Thickness on these is .3, maximum depth of cut was .25. Thats only .05 margin of error, I'm no mathematician but that is literally paper thin, so the zeroing has got to be perfect.
Once I found the sweet spot for this one, the other 2 being the same thickness came out flawless the 1st time.
Had a horrible time with the man in the park, ruined 3 pieces before I finally met with success. But I do learn from my errors and hopefully will not repeat the sequence of goofs I made on this one.
My main error was zeroing the Z by eye and feel. Usually on wood or plexi you can lower the spinning bit down and see exactly where it bites in, I also place a finger on the work piece to feel it. So thats where I zero, problem with corian and this method, the tip of the bit is almost needle like, it can easily bite in before it can be seen or felt, thats what happened here twice. First one half way through I saw it cut past the bottom, ruined. Rezeroed and I did it again, not as bad but bad enough.
So my solution was to do what I should have done in the first place - Just use a piece of paper without the bit spinning, lower it down and gives it little bumps down as it approaches the top of the workpiece. When a bump makes it so the paper will not move, I give it 1 bump back up and thats it, perfect.
Thickness on these is .3, maximum depth of cut was .25. Thats only .05 margin of error, I'm no mathematician but that is literally paper thin, so the zeroing has got to be perfect.
Once I found the sweet spot for this one, the other 2 being the same thickness came out flawless the 1st time.
Doug
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Re: a few lithos
Man those are great litho's. I hope to achieve that one day. Is there a reason you don't use a zeroing plate?
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Re: a few lithos
I love them, what step over value are you using?. i see you are using a tapered ball nose tool what is the end radius?. i would love to do some of these but am struggling to find an equivalent material here in New Zealand as corian seems quite rare. the plastic has to be quite hard and short chipping to stop melting to the tool, correct?.
regards
Brian
regards
Brian
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Re: a few lithos
I have found or at least perceive that manually zeroing is more accurate and less time consuming.
Bit is .125, no melting issues at all ... Corian is a name brand solid surface material, there are many other brands such as wilsonart, gibraltar, avonite, meganite to name a few, maybe some are available local.
Ebay might be an option, high shipping of course
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-small-1-4-sla ... 1568002773
Bit is .125, no melting issues at all ... Corian is a name brand solid surface material, there are many other brands such as wilsonart, gibraltar, avonite, meganite to name a few, maybe some are available local.
Ebay might be an option, high shipping of course
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-small-1-4-sla ... 1568002773
Doug