Jewelry box
Jewelry box
I've had all the Vectric programs since close to the beginning and they are all great. I've used cut 3d a lot just playing around carving something cool into a chunk of wood then tossing it into a corner with all my other cool carvings. I finally decided to make something useful. A jewelry box for my wife. It's not sanded and polyurethaned yet, but I think it came out pretty good. It's 6"x10 made out of aromatic cedar.
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- Vectric Apprentice
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 10:54 pm
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
Great work there Bert. I too like the way you curved the top with relief. So once you blurred the vector art, did you use PhotoVCarve at all or was the 3D all done in rhino.
I also suffer from playing around too much with all the various 'toys' on the CNC and very rarely make a finished piece.
Cheers,
Claudio
I also suffer from playing around too much with all the various 'toys' on the CNC and very rarely make a finished piece.
Cheers,
Claudio
No, I didn't use PhotoVCarve. Once the the vector art was filled in with color ,blurred and converted to a bmp I used RhinoArt to make the curved top and put the relief on it, then brought it into rhino and exported the 3d file. I made the bottom part in Rhino and used VCarvePro to pocket the inside.
Bert
Bert
- metalworkz
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 2463
- Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2008 3:26 am
- Model of CNC Machine: SX3 CNC, DIY 24x20 & 48x60 routers
- Location: Modesto, California 95358 USA
Nice work!
I'm impressed with how smooth it is for not being sanded! I'm suffering on the learning curve, so could you give me the low down on what your finish bit and pass-over is?
My stuff comes out so rough that I have to start with a metal file before I even think about sandpaper!
Again, Good job!
ZenJon
I'm impressed with how smooth it is for not being sanded! I'm suffering on the learning curve, so could you give me the low down on what your finish bit and pass-over is?
My stuff comes out so rough that I have to start with a metal file before I even think about sandpaper!
Again, Good job!
ZenJon
For the lid I used a .25" ballnose @ 35% stepover for the rough and a 3/32" ballnose @ 10% stepover for the finish. For the box I used .25 ballnose for both passes. Rough @ 35% and finish @ 6%.
You are probably using too large of a stepover. Even though it takes longer with the small stepover, it's usually much faster to let the machine do the work.
Bert
You are probably using too large of a stepover. Even though it takes longer with the small stepover, it's usually much faster to let the machine do the work.
Bert
Apparantly, too large a bit, too! (1/8" ballnose!) Thanks for the hot-tip! I appreciate it! Back to Ace Hardware!bbergami wrote:For the lid I used a .25" ballnose @ 35% stepover for the rough and a 3/32" ballnose @ 10% stepover for the finish. For the box I used .25 ballnose for both passes. Rough @ 35% and finish @ 6%.
You are probably using too large of a stepover. Even though it takes longer with the small stepover, it's usually much faster to let the machine do the work.
Bert
Zenjon
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- Vectric Apprentice
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 10:54 pm
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
Hey Bert,
The finished product looks great. It raises a few more questions though, such as;
- was the whole box done in Cut3D or did you use VCarve to cut the deep pocket on the base
- what does the underside of the lid look like (was it carved using two sided carving?)
- how did you carve the sides of the base
If I'm asking about too many trade secrets, I'll understand if you would prefer not to give too much away.
I've used a 1/8" ball nose with around 4% stepover and the finish is very smooth, but takes too long so I can probably increase the stepover without losing the quality. I've also just bought some smaller ballnose bits from this guy for doing finer detail work;
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZbwbtool
I'm sure your wife will be happy with her unique gift.
Cheers,
Claudio
The finished product looks great. It raises a few more questions though, such as;
- was the whole box done in Cut3D or did you use VCarve to cut the deep pocket on the base
- what does the underside of the lid look like (was it carved using two sided carving?)
- how did you carve the sides of the base
If I'm asking about too many trade secrets, I'll understand if you would prefer not to give too much away.
I've used a 1/8" ball nose with around 4% stepover and the finish is very smooth, but takes too long so I can probably increase the stepover without losing the quality. I've also just bought some smaller ballnose bits from this guy for doing finer detail work;
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZbwbtool
I'm sure your wife will be happy with her unique gift.
Cheers,
Claudio
Claudio,
Yes, I used Cut3d for everything except the deep pocket on the base and to drill the alignment holes. For the base I used one sided carving a little more than halfway through the material. I did put two 1/4" alignment holes through the base and into my spoilboard. I carved the top half, then flipped it and just ran it again. Then did the pocket. The bottom side of the lid is flat. At first I was thinking I was going to put some sort of hinge on it but I don't think that will work very well. I should have cut the bottom of the lid where it had a lip to sit just inside the base pocket. Too late now. I'll just cut a thin oval piece and glue it on.
Bert
Yes, I used Cut3d for everything except the deep pocket on the base and to drill the alignment holes. For the base I used one sided carving a little more than halfway through the material. I did put two 1/4" alignment holes through the base and into my spoilboard. I carved the top half, then flipped it and just ran it again. Then did the pocket. The bottom side of the lid is flat. At first I was thinking I was going to put some sort of hinge on it but I don't think that will work very well. I should have cut the bottom of the lid where it had a lip to sit just inside the base pocket. Too late now. I'll just cut a thin oval piece and glue it on.
Bert
- Thkoutsidthebox
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 1487
- Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 3:19 pm
- Location: Europe
Thats a very small stepover. In wood you should be able at a minimum to double that and get a very nice finish. Metal the milling marks are more pronounced on though I believe. I usually use 8-12% for my finishing toolpath, with a 1/8 or 1/16 inch ball. I use a 6mm,8mm,10mm or 16mm ball for the roughing, depending on the size of the workpiece.ClaudioG wrote:Hey Bert,
The finished product looks great. It raises a few more questions though, such as;
- was the whole box done in Cut3D or did you use VCarve to cut the deep pocket on the base
- what does the underside of the lid look like (was it carved using two sided carving?)
- how did you carve the sides of the base
If I'm asking about too many trade secrets, I'll understand if you would prefer not to give too much away.
I've used a 1/8" ball nose with around 4% stepover and the finish is very smooth, but takes too long so I can probably increase the stepover without losing the quality. I've also just bought some smaller ballnose bits from this guy for doing finer detail work;
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZbwbtool
I'm sure your wife will be happy with her unique gift.
Cheers,
Claudio