Jewelry box

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bbergami
Posts: 44
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 2:43 am
Location: Bedford, Texas

Jewelry box

Post by bbergami »

I've had all the Vectric programs since close to the beginning and they are all great. I've used cut 3d a lot just playing around carving something cool into a chunk of wood then tossing it into a corner with all my other cool carvings. I finally decided to make something useful. A jewelry box for my wife. It's not sanded and polyurethaned yet, but I think it came out pretty good. It's 6"x10 made out of aromatic cedar.
Attachments
box.jpg

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Turtle49
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Post by Turtle49 »

Very nice, I like how you mapped the 3D Relief to the curved top.

Tim
:D

bbergami
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 2:43 am
Location: Bedford, Texas

Post by bbergami »

Thanks Tim,
I created the relief using part of a vector art file. I filled it with black and used a gaussian blur in photoshop. The rest was done using rhinoart and rhino 3d.
Bert

ClaudioG
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Location: Brisbane, Australia

Post by ClaudioG »

Great work there Bert. I too like the way you curved the top with relief. So once you blurred the vector art, did you use PhotoVCarve at all or was the 3D all done in rhino.

I also suffer from playing around too much with all the various 'toys' on the CNC and very rarely make a finished piece.

Cheers,

Claudio

bbergami
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 2:43 am
Location: Bedford, Texas

Post by bbergami »

No, I didn't use PhotoVCarve. Once the the vector art was filled in with color ,blurred and converted to a bmp I used RhinoArt to make the curved top and put the relief on it, then brought it into rhino and exported the 3d file. I made the bottom part in Rhino and used VCarvePro to pocket the inside.
Bert

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metalworkz
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Post by metalworkz »

Hello Bert,
Very nice jewelry box you've made! What do you have planned for the finishing of the box? Thanks for sharing the information and the pictures.
Best regards,
Wes
wes.spence@comcast.net
Gingery Machines:
Lathe, Horiz. Mill, Shaper, Leaf Brake

bbergami
Posts: 44
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 2:43 am
Location: Bedford, Texas

Post by bbergami »

I'm just going to polyurethane it. The color changes a lot in aromatic cedar just with the poly. No stain needed. I'll post a picture after I finish the box.
Bert

ZenJon
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Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2007 12:24 pm

Post by ZenJon »

Nice work!
I'm impressed with how smooth it is for not being sanded! I'm suffering on the learning curve, so could you give me the low down on what your finish bit and pass-over is?

My stuff comes out so rough that I have to start with a metal file before I even think about sandpaper!

Again, Good job!

ZenJon

bbergami
Posts: 44
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 2:43 am
Location: Bedford, Texas

Post by bbergami »

For the lid I used a .25" ballnose @ 35% stepover for the rough and a 3/32" ballnose @ 10% stepover for the finish. For the box I used .25 ballnose for both passes. Rough @ 35% and finish @ 6%.

You are probably using too large of a stepover. Even though it takes longer with the small stepover, it's usually much faster to let the machine do the work.
Bert

bbergami
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Location: Bedford, Texas

Post by bbergami »

OK, Here it is with the polyurethane.
Attachments
box 3.jpg
box 2.jpg

ZenJon
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Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2007 12:24 pm

Post by ZenJon »

bbergami wrote:For the lid I used a .25" ballnose @ 35% stepover for the rough and a 3/32" ballnose @ 10% stepover for the finish. For the box I used .25 ballnose for both passes. Rough @ 35% and finish @ 6%.

You are probably using too large of a stepover. Even though it takes longer with the small stepover, it's usually much faster to let the machine do the work.
Bert
Apparantly, too large a bit, too! (1/8" ballnose!) Thanks for the hot-tip! I appreciate it! Back to Ace Hardware!

Zenjon

bbergami
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 2:43 am
Location: Bedford, Texas

Post by bbergami »

The 1/8 ballnose should work fine. The smaller bit will show finer detail, but to minimize the tool marks and get a smoother finish you need to use a small stepover setting. I usually use about 10%.
Bert

ClaudioG
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Post by ClaudioG »

Hey Bert,

The finished product looks great. It raises a few more questions though, such as;
- was the whole box done in Cut3D or did you use VCarve to cut the deep pocket on the base
- what does the underside of the lid look like (was it carved using two sided carving?)
- how did you carve the sides of the base

If I'm asking about too many trade secrets, I'll understand if you would prefer not to give too much away.

I've used a 1/8" ball nose with around 4% stepover and the finish is very smooth, but takes too long so I can probably increase the stepover without losing the quality. I've also just bought some smaller ballnose bits from this guy for doing finer detail work;

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZbwbtool

I'm sure your wife will be happy with her unique gift.

Cheers,

Claudio

bbergami
Posts: 44
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 2:43 am
Location: Bedford, Texas

Post by bbergami »

Claudio,
Yes, I used Cut3d for everything except the deep pocket on the base and to drill the alignment holes. For the base I used one sided carving a little more than halfway through the material. I did put two 1/4" alignment holes through the base and into my spoilboard. I carved the top half, then flipped it and just ran it again. Then did the pocket. The bottom side of the lid is flat. At first I was thinking I was going to put some sort of hinge on it but I don't think that will work very well. I should have cut the bottom of the lid where it had a lip to sit just inside the base pocket. Too late now. I'll just cut a thin oval piece and glue it on.
Bert

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Thkoutsidthebox
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Post by Thkoutsidthebox »

ClaudioG wrote:Hey Bert,

The finished product looks great. It raises a few more questions though, such as;
- was the whole box done in Cut3D or did you use VCarve to cut the deep pocket on the base
- what does the underside of the lid look like (was it carved using two sided carving?)
- how did you carve the sides of the base

If I'm asking about too many trade secrets, I'll understand if you would prefer not to give too much away.

I've used a 1/8" ball nose with around 4% stepover and the finish is very smooth, but takes too long so I can probably increase the stepover without losing the quality. I've also just bought some smaller ballnose bits from this guy for doing finer detail work;

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZbwbtool

I'm sure your wife will be happy with her unique gift.

Cheers,

Claudio
Thats a very small stepover. In wood you should be able at a minimum to double that and get a very nice finish. Metal the milling marks are more pronounced on though I believe. I usually use 8-12% for my finishing toolpath, with a 1/8 or 1/16 inch ball. I use a 6mm,8mm,10mm or 16mm ball for the roughing, depending on the size of the workpiece.

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