Last years Christmas presents

The Gallery is for posting images of work machined using Cut3D
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Paul_n
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Post by Paul_n »

Tim....

Thanks for the details on the finish... That was a big help.

One more question, what 'sanding mops' are you using ? I've tried a couple
and am not real happy with the results.

Paul

tmerrill
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Post by tmerrill »

James,

Please feel free to put the images on your website. I can email you higher resolution pictures if it helps - I downsized these considerably.

I don't currently have a personal website, so no links are necessary.

Thanks for a great product!

Tim

tmerrill
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Post by tmerrill »

Paul,

I bought my sanding mop from Klingspor. Here is the link:

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/ ... sBetween=0

Wow, what a link. If that doesn't work, go to Klingspor's website and do a search for item #FS99220 . It is described as "2X6 GOLD 220 GRIT SANDING MOP KIT " and currently sells for $48.95. The link to Klingspor's home page is:

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/ ... e_page.htm

I can't say its good for all applications. I decided to try one and figured the 220 grit would be slower at removing material but that would effectively give me more control. I think the 220 grit was good for this project but found it too fine when I made the sample leaf bowl that was associated with the release of Cut3D.

I have tried other ones that are only 1/4" to 1/2" thick and didn't get good results. I think action of the 2" thick one helps.

I use it in a floor drill press running at low to medium speed.

Hope this helps. Thanks for the interest.

Tim

rickw
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Post by rickw »

Thank you very much Tim. !
You know, I have used acylic paint over polyurethane , lightly steel wooled, then did a paintings. I then put on two more coats of polyurethane to finish. Worked like a charm. Never thought to use shellac, then waterbase. I dont know about this 1lb cut and 2 lb cut. What little i do know is something like buying shellac in flake form and mixing/boiling or just mixing with maybe mineral spirits. I can get zinnsers at menards. I think Woodcraft stores carry general finishes. But the store is 100 miles from me. I'll check out the link you provided. Really like the last two pics also. I am definetly going to look into this. Thank you very much. rick

tmerrill
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Post by tmerrill »

Hi Rick,

I haven't mixed shellac from flakes since Zinnser came out with their dewaxed Seal Coat product. I haven't had a bad experience with it, and use it up fast enough where shelf life has not become an issue. I have never shopped at a Menards, but I know Lowes and Woodcraft carry the Seal Coat product. Just don't purchase Zinnser's Bulls Eye shellac, because I don't think it is dewaxed.

To take a 2 lb cut of Seal Coat (how it comes in the can) and make it a one pound cut, simply mix 2 parts of shellac with 3 parts denatured alcohol. You don't have to be exact, you are simply trying to get a thinner mix that will penetrate the grain and dry fast. I do recommend getting a grade of denatured alcohol marketed for mixing with shellac.

As for General Finishes products, if you go to their homepage they have a Where to Buy link. You may luck out with someon3 closer. Here is the link:

http://www.generalfinishes.com/dealers.htm

Good luck to you and please post pictures.

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Thkoutsidthebox
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Denatured Alcohol Source ?

Post by Thkoutsidthebox »

tmerrill wrote:simply mix 2 parts of shellac with 3 parts denatured alcohol.
I bought a bag of dewaxed shellac flakes recently but I CANT FIND DENATURED ALCOHOL!! :x I've tried hardware stores, builders suppliers, and chemists/pharmacy 's. Does anyone know a source for denatured alcohol that I can order from online, within Europe (USA can't ship such flammable substances to here) ? Please help, my shellac flakes are just sitting there gathering dust. :cry: Perhaps denatured alcohol is called something else over here? Mineral spirits won't desolve shellac flakes, the brushes have to be cleaned in methylated spirits. But I don't think the flakes are supposed to be dissolved in met's....it's purple!

Above it says "chemists/ p.h.a.rm.a.c.y ' . s . Why does the p word not print in the forums?

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Tony Mac
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Post by Tony Mac »

Breadboard,

We get far too much spam from friendly little ph__m_cy's around the world,
so there's a filter that stops the word from appearing.

Tony

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Thkoutsidthebox
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Post by Thkoutsidthebox »

Tony Mac wrote:Breadboard,
We get far too much spam from friendly little ph__m_cy's around the world,
so there's a filter that stops the word from appearing.
Tony
Thanks Tony, thats no problem. You don't by any chance know somewhere in the UK to get denatured alcohol? I could call them and try to order over the phone if they don't have an internet site. I bought my shellac flakes from Axminster.co.uk. Thanks in anticipation :oops:

Diarmaid

rickw
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Post by rickw »

Oh I am glad you mentioned Bullseye.... Thats exactly what they carry. I'll have to go to Lowes then an see if they have the de-waxed version. My local stores dont carry much other than standard home owner basic stuff. Finding shellac specific denatured alchohol might be tough. Thank you very much for the guidance and details, Mister ! :) Your alright. Maybe someday i can help you . Take care. rick

tmerrill
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Post by tmerrill »

Rick,

Woodcraft carries both Seal Coat and the shellac solvent that I use called Behlen Behkol. Not sure where you are physically located, but Woodcraft will ship both by ground to anywhere in the US. I have a store within an hour of my house, so shipping is not an issue with me. Here is the link to the Behlen product, and realize there are other brands out there:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=7243

If you can't find one of the special shellac solvents, I would get a commercial brand of denatured alcohol. Lowes, Home Depot and any hardware store should carry it.

The commericial brands may have a higher water content which can cloud the shellac. But if you're using it as a 1 lb cut just to seal the wood it shouldn't be a problem. If you use the Seal Coat straight from the can for your final coats you will get a very good finish.

Some other mail order sources to try would be Rockler, Klingspor and Woodworker's Supply.You might find a better price or lower shipping costs.

Happy to help,

Tim

BobF
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Location: Savannah GA

Post by BobF »

tmerrill,
I read where you have laminated the plaque with a walnut veneer and then cut through for the plaque. Its probably my eyes or an optical illusion, but the bears and look like they stand proud of the plaque. I just wanted to check and be sure that they are actually cut into the plaques.
Thanks

Bob
BobF

tmerrill
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Post by tmerrill »

Hi Bob,

The plaques shown in this thread do stand proud of the oak base. This is because I carved the images in hard maple, finished them, then cut the image out and inlaid it into the oak base.

The plaques in the other thread, found here:

http://vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1800

which contain the bear plaque you refer to, were carved into solid pieces of wood. The 3D effect comes from the use of a dark glaze during the finishing process. If you read both posts, I describe how I did this - but don't hesitate to ask questions if you need to. Since making these plaques I have made about 20 more of similar design, so I haven't posted any more pictures. They are very popular and I wish I could make more, but they take a lot of machine time.

Hope this answers your question.

Tim

BobF
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Post by BobF »

Thanks very much for the reply.
Is the glaze "burnt umber" on the bears, or another color?
BobF

tmerrill
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Post by tmerrill »

Yes, it is burnt umber. I also use Van Dyke Brown, which is darker, and sometimes use both together to get different tones.

Tim

BobF
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Post by BobF »

thanks
BobF

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