9x9 hard maple
rough: 0.250" downspiral at 2"/1" at 16K RPM (18 minutes)
finish: 0.125 ballnose at 3"/2" at 16K RPM (40 minutes) 10% stepover
I tried a less expensive ballnose which appears to have a small "point" at the tip. Hence the fine lines that I'll need to sand out. I have already done some hand carving on this.
There are also some signs of material movement as the wood fibers were cut. In this case I like it since it gives a bit more of a "hand carved" feel. Look in the lower left of the dish
Alternate Bison
Moderator: Todd Bailey
- RoutnAbout
- Vectric Wizard
- Posts: 2087
- Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 11:09 pm
- Model of CNC Machine: 24x18 Desktop
- Location: North Manchester, Indiana
Re: Alternate Bison
If your ballnose is HSS you can use a hard honing stone to remove that pointed tip.Rcnewcomb wrote:...I tried a less expensive ballnose which appears to have a small "point" at the tip. Hence the fine lines that I'll need to sand out. I have already done some hand carving on this
I'm guessing when they ground the primary and secondary, they didn't grind past center which creates that tip.
Just taking a good honing stone and attempt to hone it in the same direction as the grind.
As always your work is top notch.
- Rcnewcomb
- Vectric Archimage
- Posts: 5919
- Joined: Fri Nov 04, 2005 5:54 am
- Model of CNC Machine: 24x36 GCnC/WinCNC with ATC
- Location: San Jose, California, USA
- Contact:
This is part way through the glazing process.
My glue-up seam failed on the right side of the board. I fixed it but it is still visible.
Steps so far:
1) The 3M abrasive pad for a drill worked very well for preparing the surface.
2) I applied a coat of lacquer.
3) I applied a cabernet glaze (gel stain) and wiped it off immediately
4) The next day I sanded with sanding sponges and the 3 drill attachment
steps left:
1) touchup with dremel
2) apply several coats of lacquer and finish with 600 sandpaper
My glue-up seam failed on the right side of the board. I fixed it but it is still visible.
Steps so far:
1) The 3M abrasive pad for a drill worked very well for preparing the surface.
2) I applied a coat of lacquer.
3) I applied a cabernet glaze (gel stain) and wiped it off immediately
4) The next day I sanded with sanding sponges and the 3 drill attachment
steps left:
1) touchup with dremel
2) apply several coats of lacquer and finish with 600 sandpaper