Alternate Bison

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Rcnewcomb
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Alternate Bison

Post by Rcnewcomb »

9x9 hard maple
rough: 0.250" downspiral at 2"/1" at 16K RPM (18 minutes)
finish: 0.125 ballnose at 3"/2" at 16K RPM (40 minutes) 10% stepover

I tried a less expensive ballnose which appears to have a small "point" at the tip. Hence the fine lines that I'll need to sand out. I have already done some hand carving on this.

There are also some signs of material movement as the wood fibers were cut. In this case I like it since it gives a bit more of a "hand carved" feel. Look in the lower left of the dish
Attachments
Bison2a.jpg

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RoutnAbout
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Re: Alternate Bison

Post by RoutnAbout »

Rcnewcomb wrote:...I tried a less expensive ballnose which appears to have a small "point" at the tip. Hence the fine lines that I'll need to sand out. I have already done some hand carving on this
If your ballnose is HSS you can use a hard honing stone to remove that pointed tip.
I'm guessing when they ground the primary and secondary, they didn't grind past center which creates that tip.
Just taking a good honing stone and attempt to hone it in the same direction as the grind.

As always your work is top notch.
Roll of Honor <-- Never Forget
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Rcnewcomb
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Post by Rcnewcomb »

This is part way through the glazing process.

My glue-up seam failed on the right side of the board. I fixed it but it is still visible.

Steps so far:
1) The 3M abrasive pad for a drill worked very well for preparing the surface.
2) I applied a coat of lacquer.
3) I applied a cabernet glaze (gel stain) and wiped it off immediately
4) The next day I sanded with sanding sponges and the 3 drill attachment

steps left:
1) touchup with dremel
2) apply several coats of lacquer and finish with 600 sandpaper
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a coat of lacquer and then a cabernet gel stain (glaze) was applied and followed up with sanding.
a coat of lacquer and then a cabernet gel stain (glaze) was applied and followed up with sanding.

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Rcnewcomb
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Post by Rcnewcomb »

After a bit more cleanup
Attachments
BisonB0707082223a.jpg

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